As China’s wine import market shows the first signs of recovery, one Western Australian region is quietly returning to the spotlight — Margaret River. Known for its restrained Cabernet Sauvignon and elegant Chardonnay, this small coastal appellation — among the most geographically isolated wine regions in the world — has emerged stronger, powered by producers who value authenticity over scale.

The modern story of Margaret River began not with merchants, but with science. In 1966, University of Western Australia agronomist Dr. John Gladstones published a landmark paper identifying the area’s potential for viticulture. He noted that the region’s maritime climate, gravelly loam soils, and long, even ripening seasons mirrored those of Bordeaux — with the only drawback being heavy winter rainfall, best mitigated by careful site selection.

Inspired by his research, Perth cardiologist Tom Cullity planted the first vines at Vasse Felix in 1967, marking the birth of a new wine region. Within a few years, pioneering names such as Moss Wood (1969), Cape Mentelle (1970), Cullen (1971), Sandalford (1972), and Leeuwin Estate (1973) followed — laying the foundation for what would become one of the world’s great cool-climate wine regions.

Nearly 60 years on, Margaret River has become synonymous with quality and precision. At this year’s International Wine & Spirit Competition (IWSC), the region claimed 39 gold medals — the highest among all Australian appellations.

Tucked in the far south-west corner of the continent, Margaret River today is home to around 200 wineries and just 20,000 residents. Though it contributes a mere 2% of Australia’s annual grape crush, its wines carry a reputation far beyond their size. And now, with Australian labels returning to Chinese shelves, Margaret River’s boutique producers are once again drawing interest — not through scale or marketing muscle, but through craftsmanship and an unmistakable sense of place.

Here are six wineries leading that quiet resurgence — each a reflection of Margaret River’s independent spirit and precision-driven winemaking.

Hay Shed Hill Wines: A Regional Pioneer

Founded in 1973, Hay Shed Hill Wines is one of Western Australia’s founding wineries and a pioneer of Margaret River. Situated in the heart of the renowned Wilyabrup Valley — the birthplace of the region’s winemaking tradition — Hay Shed Hill specialises in two cornerstone varietals: Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Its vines, now over 52 years old, are dry-farmed, yielding small but intensely flavoured grapes. Unlike many Australian wineries producing mass-market wines, Hay Shed Hill has always focused on the premium end, crafting wines that reflect the elegance and purity of their origin.

Before the pandemic, Hay Shed Hill exported to China, but tariffs forced it to pause. Now, it’s ready to return. Owner and winemaker Michael Kerrigan says the brand will focus on restaurants, boutique retailers, and fine-wine e-commerce while remaining flexible to market realities.

“The best partnerships are built on trust,” Kerrigan said. “Winemakers must trust importers to respect the brand and pay on time; importers must trust winemakers to deliver consistent quality, fairly priced and on schedule.”

“We prioritise long-term relationships with understanding of each party’s business needs,” Kerrigan said. “The best business relationships are based on a foundation of trust between the winemaker and the importer, the winemaker needs to trust that they will be paid and that the brand will be respected and distributed through the appropriate channels.”

St Johns Wine: The Art of Cross-Regional Craftsmanship

Cross-regional blending is a hallmark of Australian innovation — and St Johns Wine takes it further. With 60 hectares of vineyards in the inland Blackwood Valley and 40 hectares in coastal Margaret River, the winery marries two climates — continental and maritime — creating wines that break convention while maintaining regional balance.

Though progressive in spirit, St Johns remains family-run and vertically integrated. From vineyard to bottling to direct-to-consumer sales, every step is controlled in-house, ensuring consistency and authenticity. Its motto, “From Vineyard to Venue,” perfectly encapsulates that approach.

Certified by Sustainable Winegrowing Australia in 2022, St Johns’ wines routinely score above 90 points. Yet its business philosophy is refreshingly human.

“We prefer long-term partners over buyers chasing seven containers at once,” said director Sharon Bosveld. “That’s not realistic, and it’s not who we are.”

Bosveld, who has visited China more times than most peers, understands its diversity. Entry-level wines, she said, will target e-commerce, while high-end labels will reach business and dining occasions through curated partnerships.

“I also believe that every place in China is very different. Every city is very different. The food, the culture is really different,” she said. “This model is to get one or two good importers that have distributors underneath them.”

Subsea Estate: The Southern Hemisphere’s First “Underwater Winery”

Among Margaret River’s many coastal wonders, Subsea Estate may be its most daring. It is the Southern Hemisphere’s first open-sea winery, ageing wines in custom tanks anchored 20 metres below the surface of Flinders Bay.

At a constant temperature and under natural ocean pressure, the wines undergo secondary fermentation, stirred gently by waves and currents instead of human hands. The result is a texture that’s fine and vibrant, with supple tannins and a signature saline freshness.

Though barely a year old, Subsea’s founders bring decades of experience from Australia’s abalone export industry. Co-founder Brad Adams says that many customers soon become friends.

“We’re young and still growing,” Adams said. “What matters most is building trust — So now we need to find the right distributor who is prepared to grow with us and invest with us”

Rosabrook: Balancing Heritage and Modern Ambition

Rosabrook bridges old and new. A family estate rooted in tradition, it has also been part of several renowned Western Australian projects, including Hay Shed Hill, Evans & Tate, Alexandra Bridge, and Bunkers Wines. Its range spans approachable, ready-to-drink wines to serious cellaring releases.

The Calneggia family, who own the winery, also import fine Italian wines, giving them a rare international perspective.

“Rosabrook wines have been imported into the Chinese market previously although mainly for use in corporate gift giving,” said national sales manager Jack Calneggia. “The market seems to be evolving into a more Western style with a greater emphasis on every-day consumption with food which provides opportunities beyond the traditional banquet wines which tended to be high alcohol reds.”

The family aims to work with multiple regional importers to maintain local focus without overlap.

“We also take a partner-first approach, supporting distributors and on-trade accounts with training, activations and clear brand communication to build sustainable, long-term growth.,” Calneggia added. 

Small Things Wine: Premium Wine, Canned with Purpose

Small Things Wine reimagines what fine wine can be — by putting it in a can.

What began as an environmental choice quickly became a statement of style. Cans reduce carbon emissions by 85%, are lightweight, unbreakable, and chill in minutes — the perfect fit for modern, mobile lifestyles. But the idea runs deeper: wine shouldn’t be confined to heavy bottles or formal rituals.

Small Things wines have already reached airlines, hotels, and sports venues across Australia and are exported to Singapore, Japan, Thailand, and Sweden, where exports now account for 20% of revenue.

CEO Ian Batt hopes to bring the same innovation to China, partnering with importers who work with upscale hospitality venues and understand digital storytelling.

“Our potential introduction to China will be successful if we are matched with an importer who understands that Small Things Wine represents a new generation of wine drinkers,” Batt said.

Stones + Thunder: The Spirit of a Single Vineyard

Stones + Thunder represents the purity of place that defines Margaret River. Founded in 2022 by Darran Stone, the winery centres on the rare Wagtail Vineyard — sandy loam over clay, rich in ironstone, and cooled year-round by sea breezes. The wines are taut, expressive, and alive with minerality.

Stone’s winemaking philosophy is one of restraint: minimal handling, gentle oak, and an unrelenting focus on terroir. The debut vintage in 2024 won Best Chardonnay in Margaret River (Calm Before the Storm Chardonnay) and Best Cabernet Blend Trophy (Echoes of Fury).

For Stone, China represents both a challenge and a promise.

“From what we’ve seen, there is a strong appetite in China for wines with a clear story, wines that are not generic, but tied to a place, a vineyard, a voice,” he said. “That aligns perfectly with what Stones + Thunder is built on.”

The winery supports its partners with storytelling materials, award documentation, and annual visits for tastings and events.“What we won’t do is flood the market or chase scale,” Stone said. “Stones + Thunder is intentionally scarce, and that scarcity is our strongest asset. Protecting it means our partners can present something truly exclusive to their customers, a wine their competitors don’t have and that cannot be copied.”