For decades, the image of Chinese wine has been shaped by capital-heavy operations: sprawling vineyards covering thousands of mu, elaborate European-style chateaux, and state-of-the-art imported equipment. But this high-investment model also means long payback periods and in some cases bankruptcy —and it is increasingly being questioned by a new generation of winemakers.

A wave of small, winemaker-led micro-wineries is emerging across China, operating with leaner business models and placing greater emphasis on craftsmanship and individuality. Many of these producers are already turning out wines of notable quality. Now, in a strategic shift, they’re joining forces—not just to stand out at domestic trade fairs but to make a collective push into international markets.

A Collective Voice for China’s Independent Winemakers

One of the most visible of these alliances is YGCW—short for Young Generation Creative Wine—which drew attention at the 2024 ProWine Shanghai exhibition. While most established Chinese wineries hosted grand, standalone booths, the YGCW group—made up of dozens of small wineries—opted for modest, uniform spaces with a minimalist design. The setup had a scrappy, almost temporary feel, yet the collective’s booth attracted steady foot traffic throughout the fair. On multiple visits, the author found queues just to get a taste.

Founded by winemaker Ian Dai, YGCW brings together a new breed of Chinese winemakers from diverse regions, united by a shared desire to break away from formulaic wines and industrial norm. “Members must be from wineries where the winemaker holds creative control,” said Dai. “Our goal is to put individuality and craftsmanship into every bottle.”

Dai’s own label, Xiaopu Wine, is a prime example. Working with grape growers across Ningxia, Yunnan, Sichuan, and Hebei, Dai produces natural wines using grapes sourced from local growers while maintaining full control over winemaking philosophy and product expression. In recent years, his brand has steadily gained recognition within the industry.

His ability to coordinate growers, winemakers, and now exhibitors has become central to this movement. “Many of us are just starting out with limited capital. Forming alliances like this is one of the most practical ways to build visibility,” he said.

A New Aesthetic and Innovation in the Bottle

YGCW is not only united in its approach to production but also in its design ethos and innovation. Chang Wei, founder of Lavie Wines from Inner Mongolia and a core member of the alliance, noted: “Each of us explores different styles—natural wines, orange wines, sparkling wines. We even released a barrel-aged Marselan rosé.”

Packaging, too, reflects this individuality. “Our labels often combine strong design elements with local cultural motifs, moving away from the stereotypical chateau imagery,” Chang added.

An Inner Mongolia native, Chang originally ran an import wine business through Lavie Cellar before turning to domestic production. He now collaborates with local producers to develop his own Inner Mongolian wine label.

Other notable members of the alliance include Four Girls Mountain from Sichuan province, which focuses on high-altitude terroir (2,450–2,600m); Devo, a Ningxia winery specialising in traditional method sparkling wines; and Lyric Distant Mountains, which uses temperature-controlled ceramic vessels for fermentation and storage.

Taking Chinese Wines Abroad

Dai’s ambitions extend well beyond the domestic circuit. “One of our key goals is to take Chinese wines overseas,” he said.

“Exports are vital. Wine is, after all, a product of economic prosperity. But let’s be honest—the domestic market has slowed, and we need to look elsewhere,” Dai said. “Consumers in developed markets have more disposable income. With the right price point, they’re more open to trying something new. It takes far less effort to educate them.”

Yet many micro-wineries have limited production and aren’t ready for large-scale exports. To address this, Dai launched a second initiative: Loong’s Toast.

“Loong’s Toast isn’t limited to small producers. As long as quality is strong, boutique wineries with more volume can join,” he explained. To expand category coverage and market potential, the collective also includes craft beer and spirits producers.

At its debut showing at ProWine Tokyo, Loong’s Toast featured 12 Chinese alcohol brands, including YGCW members Devo, Gloriville in Hebei, and Zaxee in shangrila, Yunnan, as well as larger boutique producers like Tiansai Vineyards from Xinjiang and Longting Vineyard from Yantai, Shandong.

Independent, Market-Driven—and Effective

Although ProWine Tokyo was Loong’s Toast’s first outing, early results were promising. Guo Yue, marketing director of Longting Vineyard, said the show attracted a wide range of potential partners—from importers and wine retailers to F&B professionals.

“Visitors responded well to the product quality, and our calligraphy-style labels created a strong cultural resonance,” Guo said. “Having so many regions represented at one booth allowed attendees to sample a wide spectrum of Chinese wines in a single visit.”

As the sole exhibitor from Xinjiang, Tiansai Vineyards also drew significant attention. “What sets Loong’s Toast apart is its representation of diverse wine producing regions across China,” said brand director Shen Yue. “It helps international buyers understand the diversity of China’s terroirs and regional expressions.”

Dai believes that Loong’s Toast’s independence is one of its greatest assets. “Many official trade delegations rely on government subsidies. We don’t—we’re fully market-driven, and that makes us more sustainable,” he said. “Our philosophy is: small investment, big impact. The goal is simple—tell the story of Chinese wine, sell the wine, and bring something different to the table.”

Following the positive reception in Tokyo, Loong’s Toast is now planning its next stop: Southeast Asia.